Perched outside a tiny cafe next door to his boutique, Chris explains what it is that vintage clothing has over disposable High Street fashion: “It lets you create your own individual style, rather then being told what to wear… High-end designers have realised that vintage style will never go away, so more and more you see that influence in their collections, and places like Topshop end up trying to mimic it.” And from working in Retromania, which has been building its reputation as a vintage mecca for almost six years, he should know. The shop has supplied clothes for TV, theatre and photo shoots, and offers up everything from knitted waistcoats to strings of débutante-style faux pearls. Chris’ favourite pieces currently include a 1920’s evening gown and a mint condition Victorian funeral cape, but the designer rack is always full of treasures; a little black dress from Fendi (£80), a Christian Lacroix maxidress (£65) and a lipstick-red trouser suit from Givenchy (£120) were all up for grabs when IDOL last paid a visit, but special items can be snapped up within hours. Chanel especially has been known to spark bidding wars as soon as it hits the shop floor. Once, McMillan recalls, a brand new, mint condition Chanel bag was donated, still in its box, by a newly single young man who has bought it for his girlfriend. Though it must have been worth at least £2000, Chris and his team priced it at £800 and, unsurprisingly, it was gone by the end of the day. One girl’s breakup is another’s bargain.

But designer donations aren’t Retromania’s only draw. Typewriters, jewellery, suitcases and books jostle for space inside as a sale rack spills out onto the pavement. A few weeks ago everything on it was £10. Now it’s £5. Chris explains: “We try to sell everything, even if it ends up being as cheap as possible, so there’s always some bargain.” Unlike most charity shops, Retromania never sends anything away to be recycled. As a general rule, everything is priced at about 1/3 less than the staff think it could go for in a regular vintage shop. But if that doesn’t work they send it on to one of the 45 charity shops in London that they’re associated with, who sometimes don’t receive as many donations from the public. Linking them all together is the FARA organisation, founded in 1991 to work with orphaned and abandoned children in Romania.

Chris feels that this is what sets Retromania apart; it may have the atmosphere of a boutique, but at its core it’s a charity shop with a good
cause. FARA (which means “without” in Romanian) provides emotional and educational support for children and young people – their Specialist Learning and Therapy Centre for children with disabilities is the first of its kind in Romania. After its employees are paid, 90% of Retromania’s takings go to the charity, so there’s never been a better time to start wearing pre-loved clothes. Retromania’s clientèle ranges from teenagers to middle-aged women on their lunch break, proving that anyone can work retro so long as they have the right attitude, and even the hats range from a 1920’s pink pillbox covered in feathers to simple straw boaters.

And Chris’ advice to vintage virgins? Look for something to affirm your own style, rather than copying someone else’s, as “if you don’t feel comfortable with it, you probably won’t have the confidence to carry it off.” If you like your vintage to be runway-led, they currently have a classic Celine, skirt and some seriously ladylike handbags that would be perfect for referencing the grown-up aesthetic of this year’s autumn/winter shows. He also suggests experimenting with separates before trying a head-to-toe look, but believes that “there’s no real rules any more” when it comes to style. Just like Retromania itself, vintage should be eclectic surprising and above all original.

Retromania, 6 Upper Tachbrook Street, Pimlico, London, SW1V 1SK (020 7630
7406)
For further information on volunteering in any of the shops associated with
FARA see www.faracharityshops.org

Words by Caitlin Leslie

Photography by Kate Gorgunova

Editing by Rodion Jefferson